The term French Concession is what it sounds like, the Chinese were apparently forced into an unequal treating in 1849. Ironic, isn't it, that the National Committee of the Chinese Communist Party met secretly in the French Concession.
But today's post is about a great woman, whose name was unknown to me until a couple of weeks ago. I visited the house of Soong Ching Ling, the widow of Sun Yat Sen. From what I could tell she was a brilliant woman, held in high regard by the Kuomintang and the Communist party; though heavily criticized during the cultural revolution, she was accorded the title of Honorary President of the People's Republic of China shortly before her death. A graduate of Wesleyan University, her English (in letters) looks perfect. Her sister married Chiang Kai-Shek., making her family one with most interesting historical connections. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soong_Ching-ling. I know it's Wikipedia, but I found the her story and her father's fascinating, not to mention Sun Yat-Sen's and Chiang Kai-Shek's. I have yet to visit the former residence of Sun Yat-Sen, which I hope to do before long. Her residence is on the western end of the French Concession, just a few blocks from the northern eastern corner of SJTU. When I Googled her, I saw a news story that a foundation with her name just received 2 million yuan from a semiconductor company and 50 million yuan from Jaguar in China, to care for children with cancer.
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| Entrance to the exhibition hall |
I also toured the house, but no cameras were allowed.
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| And this was a gift from Russia. |
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| There were two limousines. This one was made in China. |
UPDATE 5.31.
I returned to the French Concession on Friday May 23 and I found what I was looking for: The First National Congress of the CCP and Chou En Lai's home. First I landed in Xintiandi, which is very upscale, but here is where the first Communist Party Congress occurred in Shanghai.
When I entered the building I got one photo of the flag and a group of young people, but after going upstairs, the sign said no cameras.
There were a number of artifacts, swords, knives, guns, and many documents. The atmosphere was museum like, with low lights to preserve the paper, apparently, and a quiet atmosphere such as one might find in a place of worship or a memorial. The walls held pictures and bios of the original thirteen representatives who met. (Two of the thirteen were later tried as traitors for having aided the Japanese during WW II. One was executed and the other died in prison shortly afterwards due to illness.) On the opposite side of the room was a dinner table about which life-size wax re-creations of the representatives were seated, with Mao standing, leaning over the table and talking to the participants. After leaving the building, I exited to the east, where the string of attached building held other displays of posters.
On the west end of the block the area turns commercial again, and there is a modernized alley that is filled with coffee shops, places to eat lunch, drink a beer, smoke, and relax. Here these faceless warriors perform their task in the middle of a fountain. On the far side is a restaurant named after the fountain. 
Nearby is a little museum, where I took some pictures without knowing that I wasn't supposed to. When I got home I noticed the ticket asked no photography. Alas! it was too late. There were only a couple of rooms, but they depicted what was probably a pretty nice standard of living.
And here's the Chinese bed again.
According to the guide book, there is an upstairs, which I missed. But I got the essence of the period. And here's a link for more information about the Shikumen and the buildings:
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/shanghai/shikumen.htm
I decided to walk to Tianzifang, and proceeded south and then west on Fuxing Rd. I came across the Sinon Mansions, which I had seen on a previous occasion. I had walked south before, but this time, I walked through part of the mansions (it's actually used as an expensive rental and has some places to eat or snack. I walked through the paths parallel to Fuxing Rd, then back out to the street and continued until I hit Sinon Rd. and turned South again, and there about a block down I saw this sign.
Here it was. Chou En-Lai's former home. Around back was a section full of pictures, which I photographed, then I circled around outside to take a shot of the house and went inside. Again, not photography, but it was exciting to be in another historical place. A little sign on the balcony noted that the Kuomintang had lookouts stationed across the street to check on what was happening in the house.
After leaving Chou En-Lai's residence I continued South and then west again. It was a hot day, and I was starting to tire. After awhile I wondered if I would be able to find Tianzifang, and then there was an alley, and in the alley, people!I had found it, though I had come at it from a different angle than I had before. Here are a few more photos of Tianzifang. I plan to return. This day I was too tired to take my time to shop and barter, so after a few swings through a couple of alleys, seeing a few familiar shops, I headed home. By evening, I found I had walked over 20,000 steps. Or about 8 mile. A personal record on this trip to China. In the following days, my friends took me to Hangzhou and swore we would break that record.
The borders of the French Concession are not clearly defined. The road heading east along the north end of SJTU;s northern edge looks like all the roads in the French Concession. It is lined with tree and makes for a beautiful walk. Walk far enough and you pass the Shanghai library, an eye-catching sight, both inside and out;
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| Could be any small town. Quiet,beautiful. |
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| What interesting stores! |
It's hard to believe that Liv Tyler shoes could be popular in Shanghai. These two shops are literally across the street from each other selling Liv Tyler shoes! And according to Wikipedia, Liv doesn't have a label. So someone has copped her name--actually two shoe companies have--and are selling shoes under her name.
There was also a Macy's store, but it doesn't quite look right, does it?
There are other boutiques here. I saw some great looking clothes a few blocks to the south and to the west. And a couple of jewelry stores that made me want to stop, but I was a little afraid to, considering what I assumed to be pretty inflated prices for some wonderful carving.
It's hard to read; the circular building says Prada. And the wall here apparently is surrounding someone's residence. Look at the design!
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The second day I walked through Xintiandi on the eastern side of the French Concession. This was the location of my recognition that I was walking like one of the locals. I crossed a street with the green walk signal and too a 90 degree turn to cross the next street, I stepped out into the street and was half-way across before I realized I had started crossing without checking to see that the light was Green. It WASN'T. Since then, I've been crossing through stopped traffic and even in the middle of the block. Xintiandi was my breakthough moment.
After the second day of being unable to find Chou En-Lai's former residence, I gave up. I did come across Fuxing Park. A beautiful place.I was shocked to see rose gardens in full bloom on the first weekend of May.
This brings us to the end of the French Concession, but I plan on going back, and when I do, I may add more.
The guidebook says it's the place to go for food. I haven't eaten there yet, but I've spent my longest walking days there, logging in over 18,000 steps or almost 8 miles. It's also a place for shopping. There are gorgeous items in the little shops.
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